October 03. – Arrive
October 04 – Visit (my birthday)
October 05 – Start Stage One
Alsa Bus – Santiago to Astorga. 0800 – 13:20. 5h 20m
Hotel Gaudi – Plaza Ingeniero Eduadode Castr, 6; 987 615 654
Plaza de España
Site of the town hall, the Ayuntamiento, a Broque building from the 17th century that has a special clock tower: two metal figures, a man and a woman dressed in black and red Maragato attire – who ring the bell on the hour with metal hammers that turn in their hands. They’ve been at it since 1748 and are fun to watch: grab a glass on the square just before the hour and enjoy the show. (Beebe)
Gaudi’s Palacio Episcopal & the Museo de los Caminos
The Palacio Episcopal was in spired by the spiritual insights of Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi was commissioned in 1889 to build this residence for the bishop of Astorga. In 1962, it was repurposed as a pilgrimage museum (the Museo de los Caminos). (Beebe)
Catedral de Santa Maria and Museo de Catedral
A 15th-18th century cathedral: Baroque exterior w/Gothic interior. Museum collection includes an early Christian marble sarcophagus from AD 310, from laate Roman and early Christian Astorga and other 12th & 13th century artifacts. Special Pilgrim entrance fee.
Food
Celebrated foods: garbanzos, lentils, cecina (dry cured beef), hojaldres (puff pastries), and mantecadas (muffins). Streets are lined with chocolate shops.
Cocido Maragato – a rich stew that boils several meets (especially pork and beef) and vegetables (especially potatoes, cabbage, carrots, and barbanzo beans). Served in three parts: soup, vegetables, and meats. Almost always consists of seven meats and served in a specific order. (Beebe)
Restaurants (from Beebe’s Guide 2019)
Restaurante Las Termas (for authentic cocido Maragato)
Calle Santiago, 1; 987-602-212 near the old Roman thermal baths and 164 ft from the cathedral. (Beebe p. 290)
Casa Maragata (also for cocido Maragato)
Calle Husar Tiburcio, 2; 987-618-880. A few paces to the southwest of the cathedral. Slightly more informal than Restaurante Las Termas.
Hotel Astur Plaza (more down-to-earth than Hotel Gaudi restaurant)
Plaza de España, 2-3; 987- 617-665
Traditional cuisine + the usual menús del peregrino prices for pilgrims.
GPS Plaza Café (permanently closed)
Cafeteria Madrid (known for its wedges of this, fresh perfect tortilla)
Carretera Madrid-Coruña, 237; 987-615-808
A neighborhood joint run by a local woman, located just behind the modern, mosaic-covered church of San Pedro de Rectivia. A nice last stop for coffee, breakfast, sanwiches, or snacks before hitting the trail (which passes to its left on the way out of town.