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October 7. Campo and Ponferrada

A day of long, slow ascents and descents. Blue skies and sunshine. Temps in the low 50s – mid 60s. Who could ask for anything more!

The streets of Campo – the old Jewish quarter of Ponferrada was established in 1488 by royal decree. It effectively lasted until the general expulsion of Jews from the kingdoms of Castile/Aragon in 1492.
Found a bench!
Ponferrada Castillo de los Templarios. The town charter was issued in 1180, and a fortification is mentioned as early as 1187. The Knights Templar protected the Pilgrims from the moors from this fortification.
Approaching a large city is rarely a pleasant walk. Ponferrada has about 63,700 population and it takes awhile to get to Old Town.
Ponferrada
Ponferrada
Ponferrada
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October 6. Molinesaca

Today was to be the walk up to Cruz de Ferro and down to Molinaseca. I’ve walked it twice and consider the rocky, steep descent one of the most difficult on the Frances. I decided to heed Camille Weber’s edict of “Don’t Break the Grandma” and skip it this time. So, I had a leisurely day in a delightful accommodation, met a few pilgrims and enjoyed a wonderful Brazilian meal with twelve enthusiastic pilgrims.

The descent. Someone commented, “But it doesn’t show the rocks!”
Amazing dinner. The host is from Brazil; we had all traditional Brazilian dishes.
Three ice cubes
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Random post: Music

One thing I find interesting- most of the music I hear is American from the ‘60s and ‘70s. Not translated to Spanish, but in original format. I asked a restaurant host in A Coruña if this was because of all the tourists, and she said, “ No. We just like the music.”
The cab driver yesterday, who spoke no English, sang along to the American music in perfect, unaccented English.
I made a quick note of some of the songs I’ve noticed this past week.

Bob Dylan Like a rolling stone
CCR proud Mary
John Denver. Poems, prayers and promises
Aretha Franklin
The Monkeys. I’m a believer
Stand by me
For What it’s Worth Buffalo Springfield
CCR Have you ever seen the rain
Ain’t no sunshine (I know, I know, I know) Bill Withers
Jumping Jack Flash Rolled Stones

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October 5. Rabinal del Camino

Today, I had an eleven mile stage planned, but I’ve discovered, that although I can grind that distance out, it serves me no spiritual, emotional, or physical purpose to do so. Easier for me to say since I’ve already walked this path twice than if I was facing my first time on the Frances. So, I hopped a taxi part way to make a shorter stage.
Today was clear and cool. Perfect! In Rabinal, I met four women and we had a grand time. Wine and laughter, then a service with monks and their Gregorian chants, then dinner.

2025 The Cowboy bar in El Gonso
2019 The Cowboy bar was open and spiffy. When I saw it in 2021, it was shuttered. I don’t think it survived COVID.
Walking into Rabinal del Camino.

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October 4 Another Astorga Birthday

What a special birthday!

  • Flowers and chocolates from John awaiting me in the room.
  • Birthday messages from children and grandchildren
  • Cheek kisses and a hug AND chocolate cake with candles from Ruben
  • Special attention from my favorite bartender-waiter for dinner last night and lunch today
  • A leisurely walk-about on a sunny Day.
    Clean clothes! Thanks for the blue bag loan, Dana!
Flowers and chocolates! Thank you, John Martinson
78 years old today
The view from my room. Palace of Gaudi Astorga
Palace of Gaudi Astorga. https://www.palaciodegaudi.es
Cathedral of Santa Maria de Astorga. https://www.catedralastorga.com/
Met this pilgrim on my walk-about.
Domus del Mosaico del Oso y los Pajaros (House of the Mosaic of the Bear and the Birds). A Roman-era wealthy private hose built toward the end of the 1st century A.D.
Rubin 2025
Rubin 2019
Lorentho – Super waiter. That guy moves through space like Superman! I may have his name spelled a little off.
Dana Ballentine’s blue bag full of my dirty clothes.
Hermandad de la Santa Cena
The cathedral
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October 2 Camino Inglés

The 30 Km pilgrimage on the El Camino de San Antonio Missions + the 70 Km pilgrimage from A Coruña, Spain to Santiago de Compostela meet the 100 Km requirement to receive the Compostela.

The distance certificate from El Camino de San Antonio Missions
The distance certificate from A Coruña to Santiago de Compostela
The Compostela
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October 2: Santiago de Compostela

A beautiful walk in the woods to Santiago. And I met up with the young woman from Berlin (Remember: I am her hero which makes her my favorite pilgrim on this Camino.) I have her picture.
I arrived in Santiago early afternoon. The volunteer at the pilgrim office was totally baffled with the certificate from San Antonio. I think she just eventually took my word for it. I was ready to direct her to information, but there were many pilgrims- so she just moved me along.

I’ve posted a video of my approach to the cathedral- the bagpiper is in his full glory.

Look closely to the purple bandana hanging from the left side of my waist pack. Presented to me by Dana Ballentine on my day of departure. She presented it with a long list of magical mojos to keep me safe and intrigued on this Camino. Luckily, I didn’t have to remember the mojo list for them to work!
https://catedraldesantiago.es/
This was about 4 miles / 6.5 Km from Santiago.
Coca-cola with only two ice cubes again. I’ll see if they have cut back like this on the Frances 🤣
Mediline from Berlin. I am her hero. Hehe
Convento do Carme – Santiago de Compostela: it is a current enclosed convent.
https://www.santiagoturismo.com/monumentos/convento-do-carme-2
El Monasterio de San Martín Pinario – Santiago de Compostela: A Benedictine monastery founded in the 10th century.
https://www.monasteriosanmartinpinario.org/


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October 01  A RÚA TO SIGÜEIRO

Twelve miles today. I’ve learned my outside limit these days is ten miles. The last two miles were a struggle. But I’ll barely remember it tomorrow. We live in the moment here on the Camino. Without even trying.
Pilgrims today:
Two young woman from Italy who were having to walk a 32 Km day to get to an Albergue with two beds available.
A young woman from Berlin who declared me her hero. She’s my new favorite pilgrim! Simone Grosdidier, I told her how you led me astray. I also mentioned that I’m easily led.
Another couple from Germany.
And others.
They all look after me. If I’ve stopped for a stand-up rest, they make sure I’m ok.

Not so much road walking today. Shaded woodlands or at least a natural surface path next to a road.

Arrows at every intersection, Just as the good Lord intended.
I need to learn the Spanish words for Just Resting! I stopped here for the photo and a stand-up rest. At least five people were concerned – ok? Just resting. Bueno!
Welcome natural surface paths along the roadside.
Potable water fountain. I refilled my bottles. Out in the middle of nowhere next to a bus stop covered bench. Was thrilled to see the bench.
If no bench, there’s the roadside.
Oh. I forgot coca-Cola. With just two ice cubes! ( If you know, you know)
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September 30 Casa Dona Maria

My lodging last night was 6-7 Km from where I stopped on the Camino, but the host picked me up. This morning I realized that I was then only about 3 Km from tonight’s lodging, so today was a day of rest. Tomorrow, about 11 miles with a couple of good ups and downs. Photo is where I am for the night in A Rua. Very fancy for a Camino night. A special treat. https://casadonamaria.es/