Month: September 2025

September 30

My lodging last night was 6-7 Km from where I stopped on the Camino, but the host picked me up. This morning I realized that I was then only about 3 Km from tonight’s lodging, so today was a day of rest. Tomorrow, about 11 miles with a couple of good ups and downs. Photo is where I am for the night in A Rua. Very fancy for a Camino night. A special treat. https://casadonamaria.es/

This is where the routes from A Coruña and from Ferrol converge and become a single route into Santiago de Compostela.

Pretty sure Casa Graña is the only place to eat (where I had the Pilgrim Meal), but maybe one more. No stores or mercados.

The Church of San Lorenzo de Bruma and its cemetery is next to Casa Graña.

I didn’t bring a guidebook with me, but I found this info on the web.

Dating back to the late Gothic style, it is part of the Pilgrims’ Hospital, as the Way of St. James passes through this parish. The church has a triumphal arch that is now hidden by a false ceiling. The cemetery is located next door.

Oh! And there was an horrero on the property.

These are a set menu of three courses + a drink. The drink can be coffee, tea, beer, wine, or water. For instance, if you select wine for your drink and then say you want water, then you’ll pay extra for the water. Probably the same price as a glass of wine. Maybe two euros.

On today’s menu:
First course – Galician soup or pasta salad
Second course – Chicken or pork
Third course – Dessert: ice cream bar, yogurt, custard, and something else I’ve forgotten.
Bread and French fries – everywhere and always.
Price – €10 (about $11.70)
I chose
Galician soup (potatoes, white beans)
Chicken (baked to perfection)
Custard (yum! With a sprinkle of nutmeg)

This is probably the lowest price I’ll see. In 2021 I think Pilgrim meals were typically €13 -€15. But they put a carafe of wine on the table so a person could drink themselves under said table if they chose.

I promise not to post every French fry I’m served on this Camino. I’ll do this food post and one more – anyway, that’s my goal!

This is a plate of common Galician meal items. Notice the numbers on each item. I’ve explained them by number.

1. Galician chorizo – Galician chorizo (chourizo galego) is a traditional Spanish sausage made in Galicia, known for its distinctive smoky, slightly spicy flavor, and is a staple in Galician cooking.
2. San Simón da Costa cheese (Queixo de San Simón da Costa) is a traditional smoked cow’s milk cheese from Galicia, specifically the Terra Chá region in the province of Lugo. It’s one of Galicia’s most distinctive
   cheeses, known for its mild smoky flavor and unique teardrop shape.

It has PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, which means it must be produced in a specific way and in this particular region to carry the name.

3. Jamón Serrano is a dry-cured hind leg of the pig, aged anywhere from 7 months to several years. It has a rich, savory, sometimes nutty flavor.

It is often served very thinly sliced at room temperature and is common on tapas boards or on bread.

4. Tetilla cheese (Queso Tetilla) is known for its smooth, creamy texture, mild buttery flavor, and its distinctive cone-like shape that resembles a small breast — which is why it’s called tetilla, meaning “little breast” in Spanish.

This cheese has PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, so it must be produced in Galicia following specific traditional methods.

5. Lacón – A traditional Spanish pork product, especially popular in Galicia and other northern regions of Spain. It refers to the front leg or shoulder of the pig (as opposed to jamón, which comes from the hind leg) and is typically cured or smoked.
6. Galician tuna pie (empanada gallega de atún) is a savory pastry dish known for its flaky crust and hearty filling. It’s a classic food for picnics, festivals, and gatherings because it can be served warm or at room temperature and travels well.

And here is my pack.

A short walk to get out of the city – about 5 miles / 8 Km. I made two wrong turns, turning this into a 10 mile / 16 Km walk. A Coruña isn’t very dedicated to placing arrows at intersections! Eventually, I checked my Wise Pilgrim app to see where I went wrong and how to get back on the right path. Once out of A Coruña, arrows were there for me.

This is primarily a tourist town. Ginormous cruise ships in the harbor, and I only ran into three pilgrims – and they had flown into A Coruña to take a bus to Ferrol. To get a Compostela, a person must walk 100 consecutive Kilometers on a recognized Camino de Santiago route. It’s 100 Km from Ferrol to Santiago and only 70 Km from A Coruña. Hence, anyone starting in A Coruña has walked the first 30 Km in a Spain-recognized Camino in another country. I walked the first 30 Km in San Antonio, TX on the El Camino de San Antonio Missions. I’ll meet with the Ferrol route pilgrims in Hospital de Bruma where the two routes converge on the way to Santiago de Compostela.

Hey all – I’m doing fine. Had a long day and will catch up with posts tomorrow!

Freshly crushed tomatoes with olive oil spread and a grande cafe con leche. Simone Grosdidier, am I remembering you really liked the tomato toast?

The olive oil is served in little packets- opening for the oil on one end and for salt on the other end.

Day One in Spain. Settled into my A Coruña room and pulled up Google maps to see how far I’d be walking tomorrow. It’s a tiny jet lag walk. It showed eight walking days to my next stay. Instead of booking in O Burgo (6 Km away), I’d booked in del Burgo. Quite the scramble to find a room, contact the bag transfer service, and communicate with the del Burgo pensión.
I’m the blue

Good news. I have a room.
Less than good news. I forfeit the mistake. And the new room is nearly 2.5 as much as I anticipated paying.