Ahhhhhhh

A perfect day for a perfect walk (as long as I don’t count the fall or walking 2 km past my hotel). Photos and such soon. My boots are off and won’t be on again until I’m on a trail at home. Bus and taxi are my friends!

I walked out of the woods to the Atlantic Ocean this morning
The view from my hotel balcony/ deck. I am watching pilgrims make their way down the Camino to the city center. I’m on the south edge of town.

Stage Three of Four: Camino Finisterre – Oliveiroa to Cee

Love short days!

Walking out of Oliveiroa
Somewhere
Wind power all over the place. A fellow from the south of Spain said they were told these would decrease their electric bills, but that has not been the case.
Babbling brooks


Approaching Cee
Cee – Around the marina

Last stop until my Cee arrival – about 9.5 miles. But really, this distance between stops seems to be the norm on this route.
The blue dot is where I am. The red flag at Cee is where I’m going. Reach Finisterre tomorrow. The blue water mass is the Atlantic Ocean.

Stage One of Four: Camino Finisterre – Santiago de Compostela to Negreira

What a different route this was from the Camino Frances. There were some pretty paths, but most of this 15 mile walk was on a road of some sort. We walked through the outskirts of villages through rich neighborhoods of chalets, big houses with big gates and there was only one bar/cafe open on the entire walk. Oh. And that hill that climbed for over two miles.

The spires of the Santiago cathedral in the distance.
Five bedroom chalet for sale.
Remnants of an old village show up occasionally, but along the route, we mostly see houses, condos, and modern businesses.
What do you suppose is in that bottle?!
Up. Always up.
Pinterest Maceira
Rio Tambre, Ponte Maceira

Stage One of Four

Stage Thirty-six: Palas de Rei to Ribadiso da Baixo

Tidbit: Ribadiso da Baixo has a population of 9. Obviously their economy is entirely pilgrim-based.

Today’s path continued through woodlands. There is infrastructure improvements in many villages. I wonder if the villages received COVID grants to help this Camino-based economy? The result of the roadwork was a net increase of 4 km to an already 25 km day due to detours and reroutes. (At least, I’m guessing that’s what caused the extra 2.5 miles.) I walked my 16.5 miles and taxied the unexpected extra 2.5 miles. I was at my limit.


October 13: Stage Thirty-five: Portomarin to Palas de Rei

I’m tired and this looks like a long hard day.

There were two routes out of Portomarin. I think this elevation map was for the more difficult route. The easier route wasn’t shorter, but had less elevation gains.

Leaving Portomarin. This misty fog lasted a couple of hours.
I forget how tired I am on paths like this.
The camino always passes by the village churches. If you don’t have the app to find the Camino, get to the church and you’ll be back on the path.
We are above the clouds.

October 12: Entering Portomarin

I obviously entered Portomarin from the other road in 2019 because I sure didn’t see this coming! No photo of the path until I was near the end because I was in survival mode. Scooted down a couple of places on my rear.
THEN cross the long bridge. THEN up the stairs to the town. THEN up the hill to lodging.

Stage Thirty-four: Sarria to Portomarin

As I walk along, I often think what section of this route I would recommend to someone with only a couple of weeks to spend walking. I’ve met a few who started in O Cebreiro to walk to Santiago. The long descent from O Cebreiro offers a good endurance experience and the walk out of Sarria is one of the loveliest. Not as majestic as crossing the Pyrenees, but still challenging for one’s first days.
Most common is the walk from Sarria to Santiago because that is the minimum requirement to receive a Compostela and it only takes a few days.

O Cebreiro to Sarria

Quick review of the last two days. WiFi connectivity has been sketchy, so just a quick catch-up. Up and down. Up and down. Up and down. That pretty much sums up the walking days! The ups are hard for me; I may be the slowest person crawling up these ascents, but I eventually get there. I’ve been taking long breaks at the cafes through the day which help.
The paths are mostly through woods and along streams. Through the villages, we walk the same paths as the cows, so one must remain alert in the game of Dodge the Cow Patties!

Leaving O Cebreiro
Remember to stop and look

Alto de San Roque (elev 1270 m)
Mass in the tiny village of Pedrafito de Cebreiro
Walking the rocky paths create less end-of-day leg stress than walking the smooth, flat surfaces.
Peek-a-boo!
Samos
Guarding the path.
Guarding the cafe.

Stage Thirty-one: Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

The last big climb. Entering the final Spanish region on the Camino Frances.

O’Cebreiro (pronounced oh–thay–bray–air–oh) Marks a final major threshold over the Cantabrian mountains. 3rd highest peak on the Camino.

Galicia – The mountains of Galicia are the first object in 5,000 km that the westerly winds across the Atlantic hit so you can expect an immediate change in weather with frequent rain showers and thunderstorms. (Brierley)

Hi, All.
I walked up that mountain- very slowly. The views were breathtaking, the weather perfect.

Twenty steps off the trail in all my gasping glory.
Mountain View along the way
The trail
Mountains
Crossing into Galicia
Thomas said to keep going, so I sat down.
Didn’t realize I’d arrived until I saw the green lady.

Stage Thirty: Villafranca del Bierzo to Vega de Valcarce

A narrow path along the road the entire day. It really wasn’t too bad because we walked along the Rio Valcarce or by woodlands and meadows. A few cows and sheep here and there.

One is tempted to walk through the middle of these narrow village streets, but cars DO come puttering through rather quickly!
Thankfully, there was a concrete barrier between the path and the road most of the way.
No barrier between the path and road, but very few cars came along.
Lots of big pumpkins along the way.
A little church on the side of the road. Usually there is a village around a church. Maybe advancing civilization replaced that part of the village with the road.
Roncevalles is the first Spanish town on the Camino Frances. We start in France, cross the Pyrenees, and walk into Roncevalles.