Many of these small villages depend primarily on Camino pilgrim euros. The village of Cirueña, shown at the top of the hill on the elevation map, has no surviving business after the Covid lockdown. There were two albergues, a cafe/bar, and a market that I know of. They thoughtfully provided a sheltered place (like a large store room) with a picnic table and vending machines as you top the hill and another vending machine on the way out of town.
This day could have been brutal if it’d been hot. All day on open roads with few shade options or villages along the way.
