Stage Thirty-four: Sarria to Portomarin

As I walk along, I often think what section of this route I would recommend to someone with only a couple of weeks to spend walking. I’ve met a few who started in O Cebreiro to walk to Santiago. The long descent from O Cebreiro offers a good endurance experience and the walk out of Sarria is one of the loveliest. Not as majestic as crossing the Pyrenees, but still challenging for one’s first days.
Most common is the walk from Sarria to Santiago because that is the minimum requirement to receive a Compostela and it only takes a few days.

O Cebreiro to Sarria

Quick review of the last two days. WiFi connectivity has been sketchy, so just a quick catch-up. Up and down. Up and down. Up and down. That pretty much sums up the walking days! The ups are hard for me; I may be the slowest person crawling up these ascents, but I eventually get there. I’ve been taking long breaks at the cafes through the day which help.
The paths are mostly through woods and along streams. Through the villages, we walk the same paths as the cows, so one must remain alert in the game of Dodge the Cow Patties!

Leaving O Cebreiro
Remember to stop and look

Alto de San Roque (elev 1270 m)
Mass in the tiny village of Pedrafito de Cebreiro
Walking the rocky paths create less end-of-day leg stress than walking the smooth, flat surfaces.
Peek-a-boo!
Samos
Guarding the path.
Guarding the cafe.

October 12 – Giving up on the Compostella

This is long (Not required reading…!)
Today, I walk as far as my body is well enough to safely carry me.
I’ve decided not to get a Compostela in Santiago. Yes, I will finish my Camino in Santiago, and I will have someone take a photo of me in the usual celebratory pose, and I will have my Pilgrim passport with all those wonderful sellos (stamps) gathered as I walked across Spain.
This was becoming “not fun”. A chore. An assignment to be completed on time with the requirements checked off. And then, stand in line, take a number, wait a day or two for that pretty piece of paper.
I’ve asked myself, “Why?” To prove I walked? To whom? And why would I feel the need? Is it a pretty momento? I have my sellos. Which file cabinet do I stick it in for my family to deal with after I’m gone?
I’m still sick. I pushed myself to the point of concern to finish yesterday’s stage. At some point during a very steep descent, I realized my body was too fatigued to do this safely. One “uncaught” stumble and it could have been very bad.
I want to appreciate the beauty and the people and not be focused on kilometers and requirements.
Today, I go to the Farmacia to get my cough medicine refilled; I continue taking the antibiotics. I go to the pilgrim office for an additional pilgrim passport because I’m running out of spaces for sellos.
Today, I walk as far as my body is well enough to safely carry me.
Today, I take back my Camino. I’m excited again.