October 4 &. 5: Paths and Places

We are walking along the mountains and through the woodlands again.
Photo of me on the ancient Roman bridge into Molinaseca & a photo of the Templar castle in Ponferrada. And of course, paths and mooing wildlife.

Entering Molinaseca
Templar Castle in Ponferrada
Path up the mountain to Cruz de Ferro
Mountains!
They weren’t impressed by us.

October 4 & 5: Stages Twenty-seven & Twenty-eight: Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada

Going up the mountain on October 4 was a cold and rainy trek, but down below the next day was a perfect walking day. Temps were in the lower mid-50s, little wind, and no rain.

Cruz de Ferro – History – The highest altitude on the Camino (1,505 meters/4,938 feet). Stands on an ancient ritual site that dates back as far as 2,500 years. Considered the most ancient monument of the Camino. May have been a crossroads veneration site for Iron Age Celts and then the Romans, each leaving a rock on this high point for their own gods. Today, leaving a stone here is a significant rite of passage (Beebe)

The fellow in the colorful suit was there for our safety. I imagine falls down that pile of rocks aren’t unusual.

October 04: 74th Birthday Review

Today’s walk brought me up the mountain to the Cruz de Ferro, one of the most significant milestones on the Camino Frances. It was a cold, rainy walk, but we were protected from the wind most of the way.

An impromptu birthday party in El Acebo
Pilgrims from London, Sweden, and South America? Maybe Cuba?
More of the party group. Marco in the middle from Mexico City. They were exhausted after a 32 km walk in the cold and rain (and up/down a mountain)
Walked with Ken from Southern California out of Hospital del Orbigo
Met a new friend, Lena from Norway

October 4: Stage Twenty-seven: Rabinal to El Acebo

This is a short stage because I know how long it took me to go down that steep, rocky descent from Cruz de Ferro. It’s one of the more dangerous descents – very steep with rolling rocks and slate outcrops. I’ve managed several this trip without a mishap: down the mountain in the Pyrenees, the descent into Zuburi, and the descent from Alto de Perron, but I think I’ll skip this one this time. Just don’t have a good feeling about it. I’ll walk up the mountain to Cruz de Ferro – the highest point on the Camino – and taxi past the descent.

Stage Twenty-six: Astorga to Rabinal del Camino

Whew! What a windy day! I’m glad this was only a 20 km stage. Otherwise, it was a pretty good walk. Temps in the 50s, no rain, and we even had sunshine. I’ve been very lucky concerning rain. Often, it rained through the night, but had moved on by morning. I’m in touch with a friend who started 2-3 days ago, and she has walked in rain every day. And couldn’t walk over the mountain in the Pyrenees due to the weather.

Getting a little elevation gain
It was sad to see the Cowboy bar closed. Many businesses did not recover from Covid times.
Here it was in 2019
Several nice paths today
Grateful for my rock-defying boots
I tried talking to them, but they ignored me


Pilgrims from Maryland, Italy, Ireland & Barcelona

The lady in pink is from Maryland & the lady in purple, from Italy. I met the Maryland lady the other day in a Leon outfitter shop. The Italian lady has walked several camino routes and also volunteers in an Albergue.
These five Irishmen spend a week each year together on the camino. They were in the military together years ago.
This nice Barcelona man helped me navigate the bus station in Leon. Got my ticket out of the kiosk and inquired about my bus that wasn’t on schedule.
Lars, 44, from Germany, sold his business and is officially retired.

Astorga

I’ve now walked out of the Meseta, the northern portion of the central plains. From Astorga, we begin the ascent through the foothills of the Leon Mountains.
Astorga is one of my favorite towns along the Camino Frances, so I was happy to have the day to revisit a few spots.
Meanderings: The cathedral, the Gaudi palace, an archeological dig, and less magnificent sights.

Cathedral
Gaudi Palace
Pizza delivery
One of several archeological digs
Pilgrim

Birthdays in Astorga

I’m at the Hotel Gaudi across from the cathedral and the Gaudi Palace. Two years ago, October 02, 2019, I opened the door to my hotel room to find a giant bouquet of flowers, famous Astorga chocolate, and a birthday greeting from John. He and Ruben, the amazing desk clerk, had put together my birthday surprise (October 4, 1947).
Today, October 02, 2021, I opened the door to a replay of 2019. Once again, John and Ruben threw me for a loop. Flowers, chocolate, birthday card.

October 02, 2021 Astorga, Spain
October 02, 2019 Astorga, Spain