Tomorrow is a short day, so will catch up then. Meanwhile, had a lovely dinner and visit with Mary this evening.
Pilgrim Mary from Ireland
The Camino Frances
As a reminder, I am walking the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route of the Camino Frances. There are many Camino routes to Santiago de Compostela- the Frances is the most popular and has the most developed infrastructure in terms of number of villages, places to eat and sleep, medical care, and other first-world resources.
Starting in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, and ending in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, one walks 790 kilometers / 500 miles through northern Spain. The path is about 60 miles inland from the northern coast. (The Camino Norte is the northern most route close to the coast.)
Today, October 15, I’m about 40 km away from Santiago. Normally, this would be a two-day walk, however, today I will walk 20 km and then break the last 20 km stage into two, short 10 km days. I want to arrive in Santiago rested and early in the day.
From wiki: The Camino de Santiago, known in English as the Way of St. James, is a network of pilgrims’ ways or pilgrimages leading to the shrine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition holds that the remains of the apostle are buried.
Stage Thirty-six: Palas de Rei to Ribadiso da Baixo
Tidbit: Ribadiso da Baixo has a population of 9. Obviously their economy is entirely pilgrim-based.
Today’s path continued through woodlands. There is infrastructure improvements in many villages. I wonder if the villages received COVID grants to help this Camino-based economy? The result of the roadwork was a net increase of 4 km to an already 25 km day due to detours and reroutes. (At least, I’m guessing that’s what caused the extra 2.5 miles.) I walked my 16.5 miles and taxied the unexpected extra 2.5 miles. I was at my limit.
October 13: Stage Thirty-five: Portomarin to Palas de Rei
I’m tired and this looks like a long hard day.
There were two routes out of Portomarin. I think this elevation map was for the more difficult route. The easier route wasn’t shorter, but had less elevation gains.
Seven Happy Pilgrims from Salamanca
CORRECTION!!
I ran into the Happy Salamancans today, and they let me know they started from Villafranca, not Sarria! That’s about an additional 72 km / 45 miles of tough trail!
And they are still happy 😊🥾🥾
These folks started in Sarria to walk the last 100 km to Santiago. They were half-way through their first stage. As Camino stages go, this one had its challenges with its undulating hills, but no extreme ups and downs. I noticed a couple of them already limping.
I enjoyed their excitement – as they ordered their second round of drinks, I was thinking they’d be arriving in Portomarin pretty late!
Portomarin
The city was moved. The old structures like the church were moved brick by brick and put back together in the new location.
From wiki: In the 1960s the Miño River was dammed to create the Belesar reservoir, putting the old village of Portomarín under water. The most historic buildings of the town were moved brick by brick and reconstructed in the new town, including its castle-style main church: Church of San Juan of Portomarín.
October 12: Entering Portomarin
I obviously entered Portomarin from the other road in 2019 because I sure didn’t see this coming! No photo of the path until I was near the end because I was in survival mode. Scooted down a couple of places on my rear.
THEN cross the long bridge. THEN up the stairs to the town. THEN up the hill to lodging.
Horreos
Paradela- near Portomarin.
Horreos- I think the first documented mention of an horreo was in the 1500s.
An hórreo is a typical granary from the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula, built in wood or stone, raised from the ground by pillars ending in flat staddle stones to prevent access by rodents. Ventilation is allowed by the slits in its walls. Wikipedia
Chapel outside Sarria
Stage Thirty-four: Sarria to Portomarin
As I walk along, I often think what section of this route I would recommend to someone with only a couple of weeks to spend walking. I’ve met a few who started in O Cebreiro to walk to Santiago. The long descent from O Cebreiro offers a good endurance experience and the walk out of Sarria is one of the loveliest. Not as majestic as crossing the Pyrenees, but still challenging for one’s first days.
Most common is the walk from Sarria to Santiago because that is the minimum requirement to receive a Compostela and it only takes a few days.
