Day One: Mission Espada – On the Way

This was the first mission in Texas, founded in 1690 as San Francisco de los Tejas near present-day Weches, Texas. On March 5, 1731, the mission was transferred to the San Antonio River area and renamed Mission San Francisco de la Espada. A friary was built in 1745, and the church was completed in 1756. https://www.nps.gov/saan/planyourvisit/espada.htm

On the way to Mission Espada

The walk from the hotel to Mission Espada was about five miles. These two missions are very close together, so if you start at Mission Espada, you’ll certainly visit more than two missions in a day. I think we added about eight miles by walking to/from the hotel.

Walking along the San Antonio River
Blooming Yucca.

Tres Peregrinas

El Camino de San Antonio Missions

Mendy Smith (L) Me and Marie Scott Marks

Marie and I spent our childhoods together. I was ten and she was eight when I moved to the neighborhood. Mendy’s dad & his family lived two doors down from Marie. I am 76.

The walk is through “four eighteenth century Spanish Missions and the oldest functioning Cathedral in Texas. San Antonio is the only place outside Europe that you can officially begin walking the El Camino de Santiago.” El Camino de San Antonio Missions

The Path

Pay attention to the path options. Google likes to take you along high-traffic roadways and not-so-scenic byways. We paused frequently and assessed our options. Opting for neighborhoods and the Riverwalk path added a few miles, but was absolutely worth it.

Lodging

There ain’t none.
If you want to walk from the hotel to the path (and back to a hotel), count on adding another 8-10 miles to the day. Our first day was about 12 miles and the second day, about 15 miles because we walked back/forth to hotels.

Breaks and food

Benches are along the riverwalk. There are no cafes or places to eat, so bring your snacks/lunch/water with you. One detour we took through a neighborhood brought us by a service station and convenience store, but that was a chance happening.

Day One. Start and finish at the hotel. The dark blue is a random auto trip. Light blue is our path.
Day Two. Finished at our hotel on the Riverwalk.

San Antonio Camino Stages

If you start walking at Mission Espada and continue to Mission San Juan, then Mission San Jose, then to Mission Concepcion – the distance walking is only about 6.5 miles.
Then add a mile or two at most of the missions to get to/from the trail and explore the mission That brings the total day to only about 12 miles. If you ask the Pilgrimage office, they estimate 20 miles. Not sure how they come up with that.

BUT

If you are walking from the hotel to the mission, then there are more hotel to/from miles than Camino miles. That’s fine with us. We are taking two days and enjoying our visit.

Tuesday, April 16

Hotel to Mission Espada – 4.0 miles / 6.4 Km
Mission Espada to Mission San Juan – 2.0 miles / 3.2 Km
Mission San Juan back to the hotel – 4.0 miles / 6.4 Km
Back & forth to the trail from the missions. Exploring missions – prox 2.0 miles / 3.2 Km
Total for Stage 1 about 12 miles / 19.3 Km

Wednesday, April 17

Hotel to Mission San Jose – 4.0 miles / 6.4 Km
Mission San Jose to Mission Concepcion – 3.0 miles / 4.8 Km
Mission Concepcion to Pilgrimage Center – .5 miles / .8 Km
Back & forth to the trail from the missions. Exploring missions – prox 1.5 miles / 2.4 Km
Mary & Marie to walk to another hotel for the night – 3.0 miles / 4.8 Km
Total for Stage 3 about 12 miles / 19.3 Km

Recovery Update

This whole recovery thing is moving so slowly. What the heck!? Later this week, under general anesthesia, the good doctor will perform an extensive exam and a biopsy to see what is going on with the recovery process. I still have 6 months and 17 days before my flight to Italy, so I should have time to prepare no matter what we have to do to get this show on the road.

Patience Paciencia Pazienza

Here it is, the end of February, and I’m still recovering from the effects of radiation.

Since my last post in November, I’ve switched Camino gears and decided to walk the portion of the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome instead of a third (partial) Camino Francés. Airfare is booked. Lodging for all but two nights is booked. Departure date from Kansas City to Florence, Italy is September 13, 2023. That is six months and seventeen days from today, so I still have faith there will be time to recover and train.

Italian patience: Pazienza

Spanish patience: Paciencia

English patience: Enough already!!

From Cancer to the Camino: One Step

In the spring of 2022, as I began training for my fall Camino Portuguese and Camino Ingles, I was hampered by what I thought was an outsized hemorrhoid. Off to the doctor I went – Fix this! Turned out to be cancer. A colonoscopy verified the cancer on July 22. Stage III anal cancer. Treatment was two rounds of two chemotherapy chemicals and 32 radiation treatments – every weekday for 32 treatments. On November 7, 2022, I was finally strong enough to arrive on the trail for my first recovery-from-cancer walk. One mile on the Turkey Creek trail.
Follow my training log here.

Giving up on the Portuguese

“I don’t think anyone has a choice. They have to come. And here they are.”

9/19/2022 Well. I had planned to be walking along in Portugal today. In fact, I would be spending the night in Rubiaes, Portugal.

It’s felt like I’ve been pushing myself to walk the Portuguese because I’ve walked the Frances twice, and I “should” experience a different route – a different country. But then, it struck me: This is the second time I’ve totally booked airfare and lodging for the Camino Portuguese and had to cancel – once for covid in 2020 & this time for cancer. hmmmm

The Frances continues to beckon, and now I’m thinking, why not? Why not go back for a the third time? I made an honest effort to walk the Portuguese, and here I sit.

I won’t be on a Camino until fall 2023, so there’s time to change my mind, but I’m thinking my feet will follow my heart, and I’ll be back on the Frances.

Enjoy!

Why we walk the Camino

I read this post on one of the Camino Facebook groups, and the author gave me permission to copy it here.

Why we walk the Camino by Kirk Springer

A coworker asked me why people walk the camino. I answered every person has their own reason – some happy, some sad, some simply for the adventure. As I was walking this morning, my memories took me back to my first service in the cathedral at Santiago. We all meet pilgrims along the way, seeing them here and there and building a pilgrim community. Sometimes in the conversations, others will reveal the reason for their pilgrimage.

As service was about to start, a friend from Brazil pulled me aside to talk for a minute, and when I returned, I had lost my seat and was now several pews behind my pilgrim family. My eyes touched the back of their heads and I thought of their stories: this woman’s husband recently died of a heart attack, next to her is a younger woman who’s husband succumbed to cancer in his early 40s. Here is a priest who has taken off the cloth for a sabbatical and is walking as one of us to renew his strength. Here is an Australian actor, hoping to jump the pond and become a Hollywood superstar, who has shot a pilot in L.A. and is now burning nervous energy while he waits for the results. Here is a mother with a neurological disease who has only months until she is confined to a wheelchair, walking with her daughter for one last Hurrah. So many stories, so many reasons to be there.

And as I looked at them, I thought, “We all did it. We walked 500 miles through snow, rain, sunny days, laughs and tears so we could sit here before God.”

I wept. The girl beside me asked why, and when I shrugged, she started weeping too. The Australian actor asked what was wrong with us, and when we both shrugged, his face turned red as he struggled – but he wiped away the tears and said, “Nope. Not going to do it.” And he moved to another pew.

It was such a beautiful moment. To rephrase a classic quote, “There are a million stories on the camino.” Every day more are added.

Veterans on the Camino

Posted by a member of the American Pilgrims on the Camino Facebook Group:

Warriors on the Way is an organization that brings together combat veterans for a 180-mile walk across Spain on the Camino de Santiago, coupled with a structured program that has a moving and measurable impact on the healing of their PTSD and Moral Injury. (Within the context of military service, particularly regarding experiences of war, “moral injury” refers to the lasting emotional, psychological, social, behavioral, and spiritual impacts of actions that violate a service member’s core moral values and behavioral expectations of self or others.)

https://warriorsontheway.org/?fbclid=IwAR0R1H6mD5od-cs0OPbGq0LMSOSLF69dTL_SrUVW4QKZQS4QgvGeUt3IlGY

Veterans on the Camino also assists military veterans making an extraordinary journey towards healing on the Camino de Santiago.

Veterans on the Camino. Veterans on the Camino is a project that provides Veterans with the means and the resources to take the ancient pilgrimage known as the Camino de Santiago.  This 500 mile journey starts in southwestern France, follows the northwestern coast of Spain to Santiago de Compostella and ultimately ends at the coast.  The place people once considered to be the end of the earth.

https://www.facebook.com/VeteranswalkCamino/?show_switched_toast=0&show_invite_to_follow=0&show_switched_tooltip=0&show_podcast_settings=0&show_community_transition=0