Author: Mary Day

More blue skies and sunshine. Temps low 50s – mid-60s. Rolling flat walk & just a small bit of side-road walking.

As a reminder, the Camino de Santiago is a network of routes all leading to Santiago de Compostela. You see old church photos in my post because the routes are medieval and lead through current-day old towns and always by a church.

The pilgrimage began in the 9th century, after the discovery of St. James’s tomb in Galicia, and became one of medieval Europe’s three great pilgrimages, alongside Rome and Jerusalem.

A day of long, slow ascents and descents. Blue skies and sunshine. Temps in the low 50s – mid 60s. Who could ask for anything more!

Today was to be the walk up to Cruz de Ferro and down to Molinaseca. I’ve walked it twice and consider the rocky, steep descent one of the most difficult on the Frances. I decided to heed Camille Weber’s edict of “Don’t Break the Grandma” and skip it this time. So, I had a leisurely day in a delightful accommodation, met a few pilgrims and enjoyed a wonderful Brazilian meal with twelve enthusiastic pilgrims.

One thing I find interesting- most of the music I hear is American from the ‘60s and ‘70s. Not translated to Spanish, but in original format. I asked a restaurant host in A Coruña if this was because of all the tourists, and she said, “ No. We just like the music.”
The cab driver yesterday, who spoke no English, sang along to the American music in perfect, unaccented English.
I made a quick note of some of the songs I’ve noticed this past week.

Bob Dylan Like a rolling stone
CCR proud Mary
John Denver. Poems, prayers and promises
Aretha Franklin
The Monkeys. I’m a believer
Stand by me
For What it’s Worth Buffalo Springfield
CCR Have you ever seen the rain
Ain’t no sunshine (I know, I know, I know) Bill Withers
Jumping Jack Flash Rolled Stones

Today, I had an eleven mile stage planned, but I’ve discovered, that although I can grind that distance out, it serves me no spiritual, emotional, or physical purpose to do so. Easier for me to say since I’ve already walked this path twice than if I was facing my first time on the Frances. So, I hopped a taxi part way to make a shorter stage.
Today was clear and cool. Perfect! In Rabinal, I met four women and we had a grand time. Wine and laughter, then a service with monks and their Gregorian chants, then dinner.

What a special birthday!

• Flowers and chocolates from John awaiting me in the room.
• Birthday messages from children and grandchildren
• Cheek kisses and a hug AND chocolate cake with candles from Ruben
• Special attention from my favorite bartender-waiter for dinner last night and lunch today
• A leisurely walk-about on a sunny Day.
  Clean clothes! Thanks for the blue bag loan, Dana!

The 30 Km pilgrimage on the El Camino de San Antonio Missions + the 70 Km pilgrimage from A Coruña, Spain to Santiago de Compostela meet the 100 Km requirement to receive the Compostela.

A beautiful walk in the woods to Santiago. And I met up with the young woman from Berlin (Remember: I am her hero which makes her my favorite pilgrim on this Camino.) I have her picture.
I arrived in Santiago early afternoon. The volunteer at the pilgrim office was totally baffled with the certificate from San Antonio. I think she just eventually took my word for it. I was ready to direct her to information, but there were many pilgrims- so she just moved me along.

I’ve posted a video of my approach to the cathedral- the bagpiper is in his full glory.

Twelve miles today. I’ve learned my outside limit these days is ten miles. The last two miles were a struggle. But I’ll barely remember it tomorrow. We live in the moment here on the Camino. Without even trying.
Pilgrims today:
Two young woman from Italy who were having to walk a 32 Km day to get to an Albergue with two beds available.
A young woman from Berlin who declared me her hero. She’s my new favorite pilgrim! Simone Grosdidier, I told her how you led me astray. I also mentioned that I’m easily led.
Another couple from Germany.
And others.
They all look after me. If I’ve stopped for a stand-up rest, they make sure I’m ok.

Not so much road walking today. Shaded woodlands or at least a natural surface path next to a road.