A monument at the top of the mountain to 300 people who were killed at this spot by Franco supporters in the early months of the civil war. 1936.
9/19 Mount la Pedraja
9/19 Stage Fourteen: Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca
The mountain I was so worried about turned out to be pretty easy. I doubt there’ll be a more gradual ascent on the entire Camino. Still, it was right for me to stop for the night and walk the mountain in the morning. I doubt it would have been so enjoyable with afternoon fatigue.
Over the mountain: I most like the days when the path changes along the way. Grateful for my sturdy boots on all the rocky surfaces. And my poles!
9/18 to Pilgrims on the way to Villafranca Montes de la Oca
Pilgrims
9/18 Stage Thirteen: Belorado to Villafranca Montes de la Oca
Today was such a short stage I had to stop and look at my guidebook to verify I’d already arrived. That’s it? Already?
Today was 12 km / 8 miles. This village is at the base of a mountain. In 2019, this was only 1/2 of the stage for the day. I sat with my coke (three ice cubes and a slice of lemon) and contemplated the mountain. I ended up calling a taxi and skipping the mountain. So, this year, I rest at the base and walk the mountain in the morning.
9/17 Leaving Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado
Today, as I post about yesterday’s walk, what I remembered was the dirt road. Looking at the photos, there was so much more.
The bridge leaving Santo Domingo, the shrine that has been replaced when washed away by floods, and yet another Michael Jackson graffiti. I see his name scrawled on walls every few days.
9/17 Stage Twelve: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado
This was a pretty easy, but monotonous walk. It’s like that sometimes. It is easy for me to find beauty in the lush greens, small creeks hidden among the shadows, the fruit-laden vineyards. I must pause longer and look at greater vistas to notice the many muted colors in the plowed fields and dirt roads. I try. But then soon stare at the horizon hoping to see the tip of the village cathedral.
9/16 Santo Domingo
9/16 To Santo Domingo
The Parador of Santo Domingo is a hotel that occupies a 12th century hospital that was built by Santo Domingo next to the cathedral.
I knew the Paradors were fancy hotels occupying historical buildings, but I didn’t grasp how cool it would be to stay in one.
This parador has museum halls, many of which display religious artifacts, but there is also a beer stein hall, and a few other non religious halls.
9/16 Stage Eleven: Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Many of these small villages depend primarily on Camino pilgrim euros. The village of Cirueña, shown at the top of the hill on the elevation map, has no surviving business after the Covid lockdown. There were two albergues, a cafe/bar, and a market that I know of. They thoughtfully provided a sheltered place (like a large store room) with a picnic table and vending machines as you top the hill and another vending machine on the way out of town.
This day could have been brutal if it’d been hot. All day on open roads with few shade options or villages along the way.
9/15 To Najera: Pilgrims from Barcelona, Germany, Holland
9/15 To Najera: Paths
Very few elevation changes today which made for an almost leisurely walk. Walked along with a couple of new friends and with some familiar faces. Gathering my Camino family.
