A windy day ahead, but it looks like the rain will have passed on by daylight. Time to start the elevation gains into the mountains.
Stage Twenty-six: Astorga to Rabinal del Camino
Pilgrims from Maryland, Italy, Ireland & Barcelona
Astorga
I’ve now walked out of the Meseta, the northern portion of the central plains. From Astorga, we begin the ascent through the foothills of the Leon Mountains.
Astorga is one of my favorite towns along the Camino Frances, so I was happy to have the day to revisit a few spots.
Meanderings: The cathedral, the Gaudi palace, an archeological dig, and less magnificent sights.
Birthdays in Astorga
I’m at the Hotel Gaudi across from the cathedral and the Gaudi Palace. Two years ago, October 02, 2019, I opened the door to my hotel room to find a giant bouquet of flowers, famous Astorga chocolate, and a birthday greeting from John. He and Ruben, the amazing desk clerk, had put together my birthday surprise (October 4, 1947).
Today, October 02, 2021, I opened the door to a replay of 2019. Once again, John and Ruben threw me for a loop. Flowers, chocolate, birthday card.
9/22 Leaving Burgos
The exit is much nicer than the entrance! We follow the arrows, but the cities also embed camino shells on the sidewalks to keep us on track.
9/24 Note: My phone is locking up as I try to upload photos to this blog. I’ll try to catch up later. All is well with me. No blisters & feeling well.
9/22 Stage Sixteen: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino
Today begins the walk through the Meseta, the northern part of the central high plains. I think it takes five days to get across. In 2019, the temps were much hotter. Few trees. Where the winds come sweeping down the plains. (Excuse me, Rogers and Hammerstein) Yesterday in Burgos, it was 58 degrees, cloudy, with 18 mph winds. There is rain along the way today, but it’s impossible to gauge whether I’ll run into it. Many people love the Meseta. It is not my favorite, but here I go.
9/21 Burgos Rest Day
I’ve gone to the laundromat, ate “whatever meal it was” at 4:00, had four naps. About to venture out for a coke and a bowl of soup. Find a market for tomorrow’s snacks. I’m such a wild woman!
Burgos walkabout: Sculptures around every corner, red lentils, police.
9/20 to Burgos: Cardenuela Riopico
Oops! Left this stop out / on the way to Burgos. Stopped for a break in Cardenuela Riopico. A coke and a look in the church. Most of it was roped off inside, but still, the architecture is always amazing.
9/20 Arrived in Burgos
Arrived in Burgos and took a little walkabout. Spending two nights in Burgos. Rest and a laundromat. So much to see here, but I remind myself this is a rest stop.
9/20 Stage Fifteen: Atapuerca to Burgos
See that little peak at the beginning of the stage? It was a nice 5.5 mile walk up and over. On the other side, we started highway walking. It was road walking until the outer edges of Burgos. Then more sidewalk/road walking to the center of town. Ugly. I walked it all in 2019, but this year, I hopped a ten-minute bus ride through the industrial area into the center of town. There was an alternate route available earlier in the day, but it isn’t well marked & my apps only follow the main camino routes. Those who know me know I can’t find my way out of a paper bag, so I figured the odds for me getting lost were pretty high. Hence, didn’t try the prettier alternate route.
The 5.5 mile mountain walk was worth the day of ugly highway walking. However, nothing was open for coffee between me and the Camino when I left in the morning, so I had to walk over the mountain for my first cup. A great vegetable tortilla with the coffee for breakfast.
