The Shadow Pilgrim

Shadow Pilgrim on the wall of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

EVERY NIGHT IN A CORNER under the baroque clock tower in the Plaza de la Quintana, a hunched pilgrim appears. He stands life sized, and wears the traditional garb of the religious pilgrim: cloak, broad-brimmed hat, and a staff top-heavy with a gourd for water and the traditional scallop shell, which is the symbol of the pilgrim.

Upon closer inspection, the pilgrim is a trick of the light – and an unintentional one. His body is the shadow cast by the lightning rod pillar in the corner, and his staff is the shadow of the support column of the Berenguela clock tower. There are dozens of these lighting rods and hundreds of vertical supports in the cathedral exterior, but only one pilgrim. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/shadow-pilgrim

Los Dos Marias

A post in a Camino Facebook group shared this article on the restoration of the statues of the Two Marias. The artist who created the statues is on the left. https://www.lavozdegalicia.es/noticia/santiago/2021/02/27/nueva-restauracion-escultura-dos-marias/0003_202102S27C4994.htm?fbclid=IwAR0QpOUnpZbfpPHvxO11-L0cj5Wl0sdxo8O8Au7E8NkOvLaYaPxRcjNrQTM

The two sisters became popular in the old town of Santiago de Compostela during the dark times of the Franco dictatorship. They dressed in outlandish outfits and make-up and walked every day at two o’clock – the busy lunch time and when the Zona Vella was crowded with university students. They’d flirt with the students and generally behave outrageously.

The sisters were seamstresses who lost their clientele because of family involvement with political factions opposing Franco. They brightened the days of Compostella citizens and were fondly cared for by their neighbors.

Wikipedia gives a nice recap of the sisters and the politics that impacted their lives. https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_Dos_Mar%C3%ADas

Maria Fandiño Ricart and Maria Argentina Coralia Fandiño Ricart
A six minute walk from the Cathedral to Alameda Park and As Duas Marias

October 16 Santiago – Here is Harriet

We shared many miles, helped each other traverse some treacherous and rocky downhills. She is 74 and lives in Washington state. She walked into Santiago today, October 16th, under a deluge of rainfall. We met our first day out – on September 7. She picked up her Compostela today.

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Santiago – Laundry

Santiago de Compostela-Chores: Found the laundromat and discovered I only had 50€ bills. The change machine changes up to 20€ bills. So off to breakfast! Didn’t eat last night, so a good breakfast was welcome. Clothes are in the machine. Everything I own for this weather had gotten way past my “cleanest dirty clothes.” Next on the list (after changing out of these shorts and the lightweight sleeping leggings) is the medical center to see a doc. Then it will be nap time.

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