A Day On A Path
I obviously entered Portomarin from the other road in 2019 because I sure didn’t see this coming! No photo of the path until I was near the end because I was in survival mode. Scooted down a couple of places on my rear.
THEN cross the long bridge. THEN up the stairs to the town. THEN up the hill to lodging.
Paradela- near Portomarin.
Horreos- I think the first documented mention of an horreo was in the 1500s.
An hórreo is a typical granary from the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula, built in wood or stone, raised from the ground by pillars ending in flat staddle stones to prevent access by rodents. Ventilation is allowed by the slits in its walls. Wikipedia
As I walk along, I often think what section of this route I would recommend to someone with only a couple of weeks to spend walking. I’ve met a few who started in O Cebreiro to walk to Santiago. The long descent from O Cebreiro offers a good endurance experience and the walk out of Sarria is one of the loveliest. Not as majestic as crossing the Pyrenees, but still challenging for one’s first days.
Most common is the walk from Sarria to Santiago because that is the minimum requirement to receive a Compostela and it only takes a few days.
Quick review of the last two days. WiFi connectivity has been sketchy, so just a quick catch-up. Up and down. Up and down. Up and down. That pretty much sums up the walking days! The ups are hard for me; I may be the slowest person crawling up these ascents, but I eventually get there. I’ve been taking long breaks at the cafes through the day which help.
The paths are mostly through woods and along streams. Through the villages, we walk the same paths as the cows, so one must remain alert in the game of Dodge the Cow Patties!
What goes up, must come down.
The last big climb. Entering the final Spanish region on the Camino Frances.
O’Cebreiro (pronounced oh–thay–bray–air–oh) Marks a final major threshold over the Cantabrian mountains. 3rd highest peak on the Camino.
Galicia – The mountains of Galicia are the first object in 5,000 km that the westerly winds across the Atlantic hit so you can expect an immediate change in weather with frequent rain showers and thunderstorms. (Brierley)
Hi, All.
I walked up that mountain- very slowly. The views were breathtaking, the weather perfect.
The bread truck rolls into the villages with its loud air horn blaring; the villagers pop out of their houses, bread bags in tow, and head to the truck. It’s surprising how fast some of the oldsters get up the hill to the truck!
Vega del Valcarce
On October 08, 2019: I was very sick with a bronchial infection and stayed in this village for two days of rest. At a sidewalk table across from my lodging, I was having my morning cafe con leche and feeling extremely sorry for myself. Homesick. Sick. So far from home. All alone. Waaaaa.
Up walks this man who hands me a fig. I thank him, set it on the table. No! He says. And gestures vehemently that I am to eat it NOW! I did. And I snapped his photo. And his small act of kindness turned my day around. That was the end of my self pity. People are kind.
This year, I am staying an extra day here to find him (I’d learned his name is David -Da-veed). I brought a 5×7 copy of the photo from 2019. The pharmacist spoke English, so I showed her the photo and told her my story. She called Mrs. David, and I walked up the street to meet David and his wife. They gave me a tomato and a small jar of honey. David let me know he is 84.
Mrs David is now carrying the photo down the street and showing it to all her neighbors and business owners.
I am so happy this worked out. That I’m here precisely two years from the date of the fig gift is absolute serendipity.
Pilgrim Chris from the UK. I’ve enjoyed the company of this young man and his friends many times along my journey. He was also part of the group that gave me the impromptu birthday party in El Acebo. I learned yesterday that his day job is a circus performer. I invite you to watch this video all the way through- his performance gets increasingly difficult and impressive as time goes by in the video. What a graceful body and gracious spirit.
