Stage Twenty-six: Astorga to Rabinal del Camino

Whew! What a windy day! I’m glad this was only a 20 km stage. Otherwise, it was a pretty good walk. Temps in the 50s, no rain, and we even had sunshine. I’ve been very lucky concerning rain. Often, it rained through the night, but had moved on by morning. I’m in touch with a friend who started 2-3 days ago, and she has walked in rain every day. And couldn’t walk over the mountain in the Pyrenees due to the weather.

Getting a little elevation gain
It was sad to see the Cowboy bar closed. Many businesses did not recover from Covid times.
Here it was in 2019
Several nice paths today
Grateful for my rock-defying boots
I tried talking to them, but they ignored me


Pilgrims from Maryland, Italy, Ireland & Barcelona

The lady in pink is from Maryland & the lady in purple, from Italy. I met the Maryland lady the other day in a Leon outfitter shop. The Italian lady has walked several camino routes and also volunteers in an Albergue.
These five Irishmen spend a week each year together on the camino. They were in the military together years ago.
This nice Barcelona man helped me navigate the bus station in Leon. Got my ticket out of the kiosk and inquired about my bus that wasn’t on schedule.
Lars, 44, from Germany, sold his business and is officially retired.

Astorga

I’ve now walked out of the Meseta, the northern portion of the central plains. From Astorga, we begin the ascent through the foothills of the Leon Mountains.
Astorga is one of my favorite towns along the Camino Frances, so I was happy to have the day to revisit a few spots.
Meanderings: The cathedral, the Gaudi palace, an archeological dig, and less magnificent sights.

Cathedral
Gaudi Palace
Pizza delivery
One of several archeological digs
Pilgrim

Birthdays in Astorga

I’m at the Hotel Gaudi across from the cathedral and the Gaudi Palace. Two years ago, October 02, 2019, I opened the door to my hotel room to find a giant bouquet of flowers, famous Astorga chocolate, and a birthday greeting from John. He and Ruben, the amazing desk clerk, had put together my birthday surprise (October 4, 1947).
Today, October 02, 2021, I opened the door to a replay of 2019. Once again, John and Ruben threw me for a loop. Flowers, chocolate, birthday card.

October 02, 2021 Astorga, Spain
October 02, 2019 Astorga, Spain

9/22 Leaving Burgos

The exit is much nicer than the entrance! We follow the arrows, but the cities also embed camino shells on the sidewalks to keep us on track.

9/24 Note: My phone is locking up as I try to upload photos to this blog. I’ll try to catch up later. All is well with me. No blisters & feeling well.

The Camino is along the back of the cathedral

9/22 Stage Sixteen: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

Today begins the walk through the Meseta, the northern part of the central high plains. I think it takes five days to get across. In 2019, the temps were much hotter. Few trees. Where the winds come sweeping down the plains. (Excuse me, Rogers and Hammerstein) Yesterday in Burgos, it was 58 degrees, cloudy, with 18 mph winds. There is rain along the way today, but it’s impossible to gauge whether I’ll run into it. Many people love the Meseta. It is not my favorite, but here I go.

9/21 Burgos Rest Day

I’ve gone to the laundromat, ate “whatever meal it was” at 4:00, had four naps. About to venture out for a coke and a bowl of soup. Find a market for tomorrow’s snacks. I’m such a wild woman!
Burgos walkabout: Sculptures around every corner, red lentils, police.

Red lentils
Police walking the cathedral beat

9/20 Arrived in Burgos

Arrived in Burgos and took a little walkabout. Spending two nights in Burgos. Rest and a laundromat. So much to see here, but I remind myself this is a rest stop.

Me and the pilgrim.
Entrance into the cathedral’s plaza
A presentation of Spanish art displayed by El Museo del Prado en Burgos
For chocolate lovers