Category: Camino Routes

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9/20 Stage Fifteen: Atapuerca to Burgos

See that little peak at the beginning of the stage? It was a nice 5.5 mile walk up and over. On the other side, we started highway walking. It was road walking until the outer edges of Burgos. Then more sidewalk/road walking to the center of town. Ugly. I walked it all in 2019, but this year, I hopped a ten-minute bus ride through the industrial area into the center of town. There was an alternate route available earlier in the day, but it isn’t well marked & my apps only follow the main camino routes. Those who know me know I can’t find my way out of a paper bag, so I figured the odds for me getting lost were pretty high. Hence, didn’t try the prettier alternate route.

The 5.5 mile mountain walk was worth the day of ugly highway walking. However, nothing was open for coffee between me and the Camino when I left in the morning, so I had to walk over the mountain for my first cup. A great vegetable tortilla with the coffee for breakfast.

Top of the mountain
The path over the mountain.
5.5 mile walk over the mountain for my first cup of coffee.
Walking out of Villalval after breakfast. Greetings to us painted on a residence driveway.
Building art.
Albergue advertising
Follow the arrow!
Road walking for miles
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9/19 Stage Fourteen: Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca

The mountain I was so worried about turned out to be pretty easy. I doubt there’ll be a more gradual ascent on the entire Camino. Still, it was right for me to stop for the night and walk the mountain in the morning. I doubt it would have been so enjoyable with afternoon fatigue.

Nearly sunrise at 0720. Villafranca Montes de Oca.

Over the mountain: I most like the days when the path changes along the way. Grateful for my sturdy boots on all the rocky surfaces. And my poles!

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9/18 Stage Thirteen: Belorado to Villafranca Montes de la Oca

Today was such a short stage I had to stop and look at my guidebook to verify I’d already arrived. That’s it? Already?
Today was 12 km / 8 miles. This village is at the base of a mountain. In 2019, this was only 1/2 of the stage for the day. I sat with my coke (three ice cubes and a slice of lemon) and contemplated the mountain. I ended up calling a taxi and skipping the mountain. So, this year, I rest at the base and walk the mountain in the morning.

Wise old sunflowers
The church in Villafranca Montes de la Oca
The bridge into the village
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9/17 Leaving Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

Today, as I post about yesterday’s walk, what I remembered was the dirt road. Looking at the photos, there was so much more.
The bridge leaving Santo Domingo, the shrine that has been replaced when washed away by floods, and yet another Michael Jackson graffiti. I see his name scrawled on walls every few days.

The original bridge in this location was built in the 11th century
Shrine built in 1917 to replace others that had been washed away in floods
I’ve seen Michael Jackson graffiti in so many villages; I wonder if one person is doing this or if he has a huge local following.
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9/17 Stage Twelve: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

This was a pretty easy, but monotonous walk. It’s like that sometimes. It is easy for me to find beauty in the lush greens, small creeks hidden among the shadows, the fruit-laden vineyards. I must pause longer and look at greater vistas to notice the many muted colors in the plowed fields and dirt roads. I try. But then soon stare at the horizon hoping to see the tip of the village cathedral.

Pilgrim Patti
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9/16 Santo Domingo

9/16 To Santo Domingo
The Parador of Santo Domingo is a hotel that occupies a 12th century hospital that was built by Santo Domingo next to the cathedral.

I knew the Paradors were fancy hotels occupying historical buildings, but I didn’t grasp how cool it would be to stay in one.

This parador has museum halls, many of which display religious artifacts, but there is also a beer stein hall, and a few other non religious halls.

https://mobi.parador.es/es/paradores/parador-de-santo-domingo-de-la-calzada?utm_source=GoogleMyBusiness&utm_medium=linkgoogle&utm_campaign=paradordesantodomingodelacalzada&utm_term=organico&utm_content=ficha

I got here through the hotel, but I’m confused. Is this the cathedral? I know the 12 th century hospital was built next to the cathedral.
Perhaps a statue of Santo Domingo?
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9/16 Stage Eleven: Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Many of these small villages depend primarily on Camino pilgrim euros. The village of Cirueña, shown at the top of the hill on the elevation map, has no surviving business after the Covid lockdown. There were two albergues, a cafe/bar, and a market that I know of. They thoughtfully provided a sheltered place (like a large store room) with a picnic table and vending machines as you top the hill and another vending machine on the way out of town.

The road to Cirueña

This day could have been brutal if it’d been hot. All day on open roads with few shade options or villages along the way.

Pilgrims Patti and Ann leaving Azofra
Azofra
Walking through farmland
Much gratitude for the coolish temps and overcast skies while walking through these open spaces.