October 11. O Cebreiro

In 2019, I rode up O Cebreiro on a horse. In 2021, I walked. This year, I came up on wheels! So, this is an O Cebreiro post. I didn’t walk today – other than the three miles just roaming around this little, ancient village. It’s full of albergues, gift shops, restaurants, and at least one hotel. People are often put off by the commercialism here, but I enjoyed exploring, reading the history, reuniting with pilgrims and meeting new ones.

I attended evening mass and a beautiful after-mass pilgrim blessing – read in seven languages from volunteers within the pilgrim gathering. If you find yourself in O Cebreiro, it’s a special pilgrim experience.

Fun note to my south Texas friends – I had a rousing good time at a table with four men from Matamoros and a woman from Australia. The guys were pretty excited at running into someone from Corpus Christi. To the rest of you, Matamoros, Mexico is only 165 miles south of my hometown. We had lots of stories to swap.

2019 O Cebreiro by reluctant horse.
It really wasn’t all that difficult for me at a strong 74
2025! A €30 ride. Oh, well.
Santa María la Real is believed to have been founded around 836 AD, making its origins almost 1,200 years old. Much of the structure visible today dates from restorations in the 12th and 20th centuries.
Santa María la Real
Santa María la Real
Santa María la Real
Pilgrim blessing

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Old stone building
A palloza is a traditional stone-and-thatch dwelling that dates back to pre-Roman (Celtic) times and was used for centuries in the mountains of Galicia and León.
Café con leche time!
This fellow is walking in silence. He has a big sign on the back of his pack about it. He communicates by text – to order food, he creates the text in large font and shows it to the server.
Elevation from where I stayed last night to O Cebreiro
Universal language