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September 25 Castrojeriz

A cold slice of watermelon and a coke. Sigh.

Another hot, dusty walk on the Meseta. Arrived at the bar and the proprietor asked where I was from. I always said TEXAS because no one knew about Kansas. Everyone knew Texas. Always…. ahh! Texas!! And so it was with this fellow. But he also had a motorcycle jacket displayed on his wall with Texas badges on it. He gifted me with the watermelon.

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September 25 Hontanas Nice little bar/cafe

September 25. 7.25 miles to the first village. Walked to the second bar per Dana Ballentine’s instructions😊. Ordered coffee, coke, bacon, egg and cheese sandwich. Nice little hostel run by a young Irish woman. Hostel Fuentestrella in the village of Hontanas

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She wrapped what I couldn’t eat. Made a nice afternoon snack.
Leaving Hontanas
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September 24 Villanueva de Argano lodging

Hostal Linares – No room in Hornillos, so stayed a few km away in Villanueva de Argano. The proprietor came to get me and then brought me back to the path the next morning.
Shared dinner with these pilgrims from California. They were tired and concerned – no room in Hornillos! I called my lodging and they were able to get a room.
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September 24 Hornillos del Camino Villagers

At the Casa rural la casa del abuelo, there are friendly people to help travelers get to where they want to go. The man carrying the dishes of food called ahead to Mary’s lodging for the night, Hostal Linares, about 6 km away. The inn keeper is on her way down to pick up Mary. No charge!
And here’s the Italian fellow again!
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September 23 Tomorrow: The Meseta Begins

September 23. Tomorrow starts the meseta. Long stages. No shade. Scarce water refill options.
“The meseta is the name given to the large and expansive flat plains of central Spain. Beginning just after Burgos, and ending in Astorga, the Camino Frances travels through the northern point of the meseta for approximately 220km,”

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September 23 Burgos Rest Day – Street Sculptures

Shopped for a jacket and another layer of warm clothes-sort of a very lightweight sweatshirt. It will be nearly a week before I’m in another town with stores and it suddenly got cool! 46 this morning with a high of 68. Should warm somewhat this week but thought I should be prepared.
Taking it easy today. Found a laundromat and washing all my clothes. Hand washing doesn’t get them all that clean.
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September 22 & 23 Burgos for Two Nights

September 22. Burgos for two nights. Arrived and my room was ready early. Much to see in this city, but this is rest period so must limit my curiosity. I’m near the city center across from the cathedral, so not far from the happenin’ places.
 
While in 

Ibeas de Juarros, I had breakfast with a young Spanish woman who stopped on her way to Burgos with her full pack. And I had thought this route was off the Camino. She showed me this was an optional route-4 km longer than the main path, but this route is flat. Main route is hilly. I’d be more attentive to alternate routes, but after Burgos it’s flat. The views in the hilly areas are breathtakingly beautiful, and long days of flat in front of are monotone. My knee will be happy for flat, but my mind will miss the surprising vistas.

 
I’ve learned my fatigue barometer:
-Not tired-focus on destination begins about the last 1-3 miles.
-Very tired-focus on the destination begins before I get my boots on.
That should be my signal for a short day or a rest day. Who wants to walk all day with a bad attitude!Spain wakes slowly and stays up late. The restaurant in last night’s village opened at 9pm, but 7-8pm seems to be more usual. It’s 12:10 pm and stores on the plaza are still sleeping.

Hotel Cordon $54.50/night